TOPIC: New Construction Inspections ?

Does anyone do Inspections on New construction homes? I mean like at rough in, then after drywall (final) ? If you do this type of inspections, I would like to talk to you and hear any pointers, tips or the good, bad and ugly ?

And does anyone have a sample report or better yet a Template for this type of inspection? 

fyi i have been a contractor for 25+ years and built and wired many homes.  it's not that iam new to building, or even home inspections, just i never did a  rough in inspection on a new house.


Jim

I usually offer a pre-drywall and final. 

During the Pre-drywall I look at utility rough-ins, damaged structural due to utility installation, nailing plates overtop utilities, placement of receptacle boxes, etc.

They seem to skimp on receptacles in kitchens and light switches in master baths.  Only one switch to turn on the lights over the seperate vanities on either side of the huge master bath suites.  Somebody has to walk  to the other side of the bath to turn on their vanity light. 

The McMansions usually have quirky framing issues.  Octogon shaped breakfast areas which create bad roof framing.  Dead end bays between the roof joists so there is not adequate ventilation. 

McMansions with a flying cat walk so the house is basicaly cut into.  The only HVAC return is in the master suite so the other side of the house bedrooms have no return.  The center hallway is basically a giant open chimney so all the first floor heat goes up and all the cool falls.  Tell the buyer to expect HVAC issues. 

I ask buyers how they plan to use the room with the pull down attic stairs.  If they already have their furniture layout, the attic stairs would land in the center of the bed.  They may want to have the attic stairs moved.

At the Final inspection you find all the typical stuff.  Incomplete or overlooked caulking/sealing of exterior, always damaged shingles on the lower roofs from subs working on the hot soft shingles in July/August, debris in disposal, debris in HVAC returns, too much expandable foam squeezing windows so they dont operate smoothly, extra light switches for future ceiling fans, gas fireplace not completely installed, decks built sub-par, missing supports under exterior thresholds (side man door from garage).

I point out all the places to expect cracking.  Between molding along stair case, between fiberglass tub and tile surround, between stone countertop and tile backsplash, corners of tile showers, etc.  Of course the nail pops in the bathrooms from not running the fans and in the closets due to temp differentials.

Check the overhangs on the stone counters.  They love to have the cantilevered stone countertop with no corbels.  1.25 stone can be unsupported 10 inches.  More than 10 and you need corbels or if more than 1/3 of the countertop is cantilevered.

Condensation drains directly onto foundation.  Manufactured stone installed with no weep screeds, directly over hard surfaces, exposed lath, etc. 

Bruce thanks for taking the time to make that great reply.  This will help me to set up some type of outline to go by.  Fortunately it is set up for this Monday so I have a few days to get my Sh^&%T together.

Jim